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Photo: © UN Climate Change – Zô Guimarães

It’s Day Three in Belém, and the rainforest heat (32°C) still rages outside, but inside it’s arctic. Delegates huddle in scarves and jackets, joking that COP30 is the only summit where you can get climate change and climate shock. The Wi-Fi, meanwhile, is struggling under the weight of over 55,000 users. “Delivering on the Paris Promise? First deliver a router,” muttered one delegate while performing the fifth restart of the day.

The buzz, though, is around the protest that broke out last night. Dozens of activists forced their way through the main entrance, damaging doors and injuring two security guards. The venue was patched up overnight. Even an actual army tank parked outside didn’t stop the action — now a surreal selfie spot for baffled attendees.

Despite the chaos, today’s official theme focused on people and principles: education, culture, jobs, justice, health, and the Global Ethical Stocktake. Discussions on climate equity, workers’ rights and combating disinformation struck a serious tone. In quieter corners, students showcased solar water purifiers, while schoolchildren painted murals titled “Our Climate, Our Stories.” As one observer said, “This mural says more than most speeches.”

In the corridors, the vibe is warming. Delegates swapped notes on air-con survival strategies and açaí hotspots. I chatted with a Middle Eastern delegate staying in a one-star guesthouse — overpriced, but clean and good-naturedly endured. “It’s a bed and a socket. I’ve had worse,” they shrugged.

Electric shuttle buses, meanwhile, are proving to be prime real estate for impromptu diplomacy. Packed full of climate veterans and first-timers alike, they’ve become mobile meetups for swapping tips, contacts, and occasionally, snacks.

So far, Day Three has delivered drama, determination, and just the right amount of absurdity to keep things relatable. As one delegate mused, stepping back into the tropical sun: “It’s messy, but maybe that’s the magic.”

More tomorrow.

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